Help and Guides
The information below is based on our experience. Requirements and regulations may vary depending on the location and situation. Before starting a project, we recommend confirming the exact conditions with the local municipality. We can also provide additional clarification if needed.
1. Dealing with Blocked Drains
For a serious blockage, the most reliable solution is high-pressure flushing of the sewer pipes. This method carries its own risks, so it should always be performed with caution.
For lighter blockages, such as slow drainage or gurgling sounds, gentler methods can often be tried first, such as a plunger, a chemical drain cleaner, or a flexible drain cleaning cable designed for pipes. Chemical drain cleaners should still be used with care, as they can pose health risks if inhaled or if they come into contact with skin. When using them, the room should be properly ventilated. Additionally, some cleaners may damage pipes made from non-standard materials.
Over time, dirt accumulates in the pipes — usually soap residues, grease, and hair that cling to the pipe walls. Regular pipe maintenance ensures that small problems can be resolved easily without needing more than basic household tools.
2. I want to build a pond on my property. What requirements and rules do I need to follow?
Building a pond can often lead to misunderstandings, as several factors affect whether a permit is required. Conflicting opinions often appear online because people interpret information from different sources in various ways.
Building permit. According to Estonian construction law, a pond is considered a water reservoir or a drainage structure, which means a building permit from the local municipality is required. Therefore, the municipality is the right place to start.
Environmental permit. Required if the pond is larger than 1 hectare, if you alter an existing water body, remove more than 5 m³ of sediment, or significantly change water flow. Most private ponds fall well below these thresholds.
Excavated soil. If you are a private individual digging on your own land and the excavated soil remains on the same property, no separate permit is needed. If you wish to remove the soil from the property, a permit is required. If you dig down to the subsoil, such as limestone, this belongs to the state, and a permit is needed for extraction, as well as a resource fee.
Location restrictions. Construction ban zones exist near shorelines and water bodies, where new structures, including ponds, are generally prohibited. The width of the restricted zone depends on the type of water body. Nature reserves, habitats of protected species, and existing drainage systems impose their own restrictions and require coordination with the Land Improvement Bureau and neighbors.
Finding the right information. “It’s my land, so I can dig!” or “In Finland, everyone has a pond” does not give a complete legal picture, despite what is said on online forums. To avoid later problems and having to fill in the pond, you should contact your local municipality and begin a reasonable discussion.
3. What is ground-source heating?
Ground-source heating (geothermal heating) uses the stable temperature of the ground to heat your home. The system requires hundreds of meters of buried piping and an indoor unit – a heat pump. The pipes in the ground are filled with a special fluid, which the heat pump constantly circulates through the system. The fluid’s job is to collect heat from the ground, while the heat pump extracts that heat and sends it to radiators or underfloor heating.
The system runs on electricity, but for each unit of electricity used, it produces several units of heat. Operating costs are generally much lower than conventional heating. Indoors, the heat pump takes up about as much space as a large refrigerator and is usually installed in a utility room. The system requires very little daily attention – mainly annual checks of pressure and fluid – and the heat pump has a long lifespan.
Horizontal ground-source heating installation
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Your yard needs enough free space – usually a few hundred square meters, depending on your home’s heating needs.
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We dig trenches about a meter deep (or deeper), lay the piping, and refill the trenches. The lawn typically recovers by the next season.
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Trenches settle during the first year, so additional soil may need to be added.
Is ground-source heating worth it?
It’s a good choice if you have enough space in your yard and plan to stay in your home long-term. In that case, lower running costs will offset the higher initial investment. If your lot is small or densely landscaped, a vertical borehole or another heating solution might be a better fit.
4. I cannot connect my household sewage pipe to the public sewer system. What can I do?
If your property cannot be connected to the public sewer, the most common solutions are a septic system or a holding tank.
Septic system. This system treats wastewater right on your property. Bacteria are added to the septic tank to break down the waste, and the treated water then seeps safely into the ground through a drainage field. A septic system cannot be installed legally or safely if a drinking water well or borehole is too close. It is also not recommended if the soil or groundwater conditions are unsuitable — for example, clay soil or a high water table.
Holding tank. This tank simply collects your household wastewater. Once full, a tanker truck must be called to empty it. This is almost the only system allowed for most properties, no matter the soil or groundwater conditions. The downside is that in households with many people, the tank must be emptied more frequently, which can become costly.
5. Can I drain stormwater or drainage water from my property into the public sewer?
No. It is prohibited under Estonian water and sewerage regulations. Violations can result in fines. Even though the water is clean, the volume is large. Large volumes place a significant burden on wastewater treatment plants.
If you are dealing with a constantly wet property, a damp basement, and nowhere to channel the rainwater, the right first step is to contact your local water utility.
6. Why should I have my water tested?
Estonia and the European Union have set quality standards for drinking water because water quality is often impossible to judge by sight alone. Harmful substances — such as chemicals or certain bacteria — usually have no smell or color, and their presence can only be reliably determined through laboratory analysis. Even substances that appear harmless to human health can cause problems over time. For example, did you know that excessive fluoride can lead to dental problems?
Knowing the properties of your water helps you make the right choices, for example when selecting bathroom tiles or kitchen surfaces. High iron content in water leaves rust-colored marks on white and light-colored surfaces, while manganese can leave darker stains ranging from brown to black.
Hard water is another reason to test your water. The optimal hardness for drinking water is around 4–8 mg-eq/l. Hard water causes limescale in kettles, boilers, and washing machines, and reduces the effectiveness of soap and detergent.
Your local water utility can provide the best overview of the quality of your tap water. If you drink water from your own well, laboratory testing is the only reliable way to know exactly what you are drinking.
7. I’m planning to build a house. Which part of the construction process do you handle?
We handle everything that happens on and below the ground before the house itself starts to rise. This is the stage where mistakes are the most expensive and difficult to fix later.
How a typical project with us unfolds:
1. Paperwork and permits
Every house project starts with paperwork. We help you determine which permits and approvals are required and check that everything is in order. This includes the building permit from your local municipality, connection agreements with the water and sewer utility, electrical and street-work permits, and any other documents your project may require. Starting early with permits helps avoid delays later.
2. Scheduling and contract
Once permits are in place, we agree on an expected start date and the duration of the work. We sign a contract with you, specifying the scope and pricing. Depending on the project, a deposit may be requested — for example, if site-specific materials or equipment need to be ordered or reserved.
3. Mobilizing on site and preparation
At the start of work, we mark out the foundation and other key points, remove obstacles such as trees, fences, or old structures, and set up temporary traffic and safety measures. Any unexpected issues — for example, incorrectly marked utility lines, neighbor concerns, or conditions set by the road authority — are resolved before digging begins.
4. Street and utility connections
If the new house needs to connect to the existing city network, we carry out street and utility excavation work. We close the street, cut the asphalt, locate connection points, and make the necessary connections for water, sewer, electricity, gas, and telecom networks. Afterwards, the street is restored and reopened to traffic. Working near public streets and utilities is strictly regulated and must comply with all rules.
5. Groundwork and foundation
Once connections are ready, we move on to the main earthworks: excavation, transporting and compacting soil, adding sand and crushed stone, building the base, installing necessary utilities, and preparing the site for concrete.
6. Concrete pouring
Concrete pouring is a special moment in the project — you can see the project coming to life and how paperwork starts to become a tangible home. Once the foundation has cured and is ready, the construction team takes over and the project moves into the next phase.
If you’re still in the planning stage and want to know what to expect for your specific site, get in touch. We’ll walk you through the entire process step by step, give recommendations, and help you avoid costly mistakes.